
Water Heater Repair
A tank that's leaking from the shell or discharging at the relief valve should be taken off gas or off its breaker and the cold supply closed, then called in.
When this becomes an emergency
- A wet ring on the garage floor around the base of the tank.
- Rust colouring the hot water and nothing on the cold side.
- The relief valve on the side of the tank dripping into its pipe.
- Popping from inside the tank each time it fires.
What a pro does
Repair or replace is the real question on a water heater call, and a plumber wants evidence before answering it. Age comes off the serial number rather than off memory. The anode rod comes out for a look, since a rod that's eaten away means the tank has been protecting itself with bare steel for some time already. On gas units the vent gets checked along with the burner, because a heater in a Georgia garage or an interior closet has to draft properly and a blocked flue is a safety matter before it's a hot water matter. Electric units get their elements and thermostats tested individually, which is what separates a dead upper element from a tank that's simply full of sediment. A flush pulls out what's settled on the bottom, though on a tank that has never been flushed the sediment sometimes comes out in pieces rather than in suspension. If the shell is weeping anywhere, there's no repair to make. Replacement then brings the pan, the drain line, and the expansion side into scope so the new unit isn't installed into the same conditions that finished the last one.
Frequently asked questions
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